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facial life-casting

1: Materials    2: Preparation  3: Alginate    4: Adding Strength  5: Removal  6: The Positive

From building merchantsAfter you have mixed the plaster, begin filling the mould. There are many argued techniques on how best this should be done.  As long as you make sure you are not trapping any air, causing bubbles to form and spoil the cast, you can use a brush to paint plaster on in layers (this has the advantage of making the positive light and manageable).

With this technique some people even incorporate a rod of wood or metal into the valley of the mould to use as a handle later on.  More importantly, it does not allow the heavy plaster to crush any details during drying.
A good tip is to blow into the mould, channelling the wet plaster into all the nooks and crannies and exposing any air pockets (blowing into the cast will not cause air bubbles to form, as the wet plaster simply flows evenly back into the mould, clinging to the sides).
Make sure that the plaster positive is thick enough so as not to shatter when it comes to removing it. If you are unsure, best to completely fill the cast. The plaster will begin to cure. During this time it will become very hot. Times will vary according to how thick you have made the positive cast; but, once the heat subsides and it begins to cool down, you should begin to separate the casts. This will take care and patience to gradually separate the layers of bandage and alginate from around the face. Only then will you see if you have been successful or not!

Life cast

From Hardware shopAll you need then do is tidy up any flaws or ruff edges with a rasping tool, and your cast is complete.

 

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Sculptor/model maker: Sylak  -   Artist/painter: Nicky

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This page was last reviewed by the WebMaster on 25/11/2000